When the sun sets over Dar es Salaam, Tanzania’s bustling commercial capital, the city doesn’t go to sleep — it wakes up in a different way.
From Kwa Azizi Ally in Temeke to Kariakoo, and from Samora Avenue to Ubungo, thousands of men and women light up their kerosene lamps and plug in makeshift bulbs, ready to do business long after most offices close.
They are the heart of Dar’s nighttime economy — a growing sector that feeds, moves, and entertains the city while providing jobs to thousands of informal traders.
At a busy corner in Temeke, Marijan Mohamed Natenga sets up his small table. Once a shoe seller at Kariakoo Market, Natenga now fries octopus — a delicacy locals call “pweza” — for hungry night-shift workers and late commuters.
“It must be crispy but tender,” he says, stirring a pot over glowing charcoal. “People want that melting texture. It takes almost an hour and a half to prepare it right.”
For ten years, Natenga has made a name for himself among the evening crowd. On a good night, over 20 regular customers visit his spot. “I used to sell shoes the whole day and go home with nothing,” he says. “Now, when the night comes, I know I’ll have food on my table.”
Even when power cuts strike, Natenga doesn’t stop. A kerosene lamp lights his small business. “Light or no light, we must work,” he adds with a smile.
A few streets away, Asha Yahaya, a 34-year-old single mother of three, also depends on the night to make ends meet. By day, she faces frequent evictions from city law enforcement officers for operating without a permanent stall. But when night falls, she breathes easier.
“It’s peaceful,” Asha says while serving plates of rice and beans to passing pedestrians. “Between 9 p.m. and 1 a.m., that’s when I make my best sales.”
Her night income pays her children’s school fees and rent. Yet, the darkness also brings dangers — crime, harassment, and environmental hazards.
Still, Asha believes the night gives her freedom. “I only fear being stopped from working,” she says. “We’re not criminals. We just want to live.”
Experts say the night economy in Tanzania is often misunderstood.
Dr. Egidius Kamanyi from the University of Dar es Salaam explains: “People associate night work with crime or immorality. But not everyone working at night is doing something wrong. Some are just feeding families.”
He adds that society’s traditional beliefs are part of the challenge. “If a woman comes home late, even if she’s been working, people judge her. This mindset slows progress.”
Across the world, night economies drive growth. In New York, for example, the sector generates over 35 billion US dollars annually, while London’s nightlife employs around 8% of the city’s workforce.
Economist Prof. Haji Semboja of Zanzibar University believes Dar es Salaam has similar potential. “A vibrant night economy can boost tourism, create jobs, and build safer, more inclusive cities,” he says.
On Kilwa Road, 36-year-old Salumu Bakari fries the city’s favorite dish — chipsi kuku (chips and chicken). After eight years in business, he says night sales have doubled his income and allowed him to hire four workers.
“People eat at all hours,” he laughs. “The more they eat, the more I earn.”
Bakari now supports his family and even pays his sister’s university fees. “The night is my office,” he jokes.
A nearby pharmacist agrees. “We stay open late because people come for medicine after work,” she says. “That means more business and more taxes for the government.”
These small vendors — food sellers, taxi drivers, pharmacists, and entertainers — form the backbone of Dar’s informal night economy, which economists say accounts for up to 60% of Tanzania’s GDP.
Despite its potential, Dar’s night economy faces serious obstacles.
Many areas lack reliable electricity, permanent structures, or street lights. “Sometimes, we contribute money to fuel one generator for the whole street,” says Bakari.
Security is another concern. Bodaboda riders (motorcycle taxis) report frequent robberies, especially on unlit roads. “If the lights go off, we all get scared — riders and passengers alike,” one driver told the Daily News.
Police spokesperson SACP David Misime says patrols have increased and 420 gender desks have been established to address abuse and crime. “We are working with communities to make nights safer,” he said.
Energy Minister January Makamba also assured that new power projects, including the Julius Nyerere Hydropower Project, will help stabilize electricity by 2025.
The Dar es Salaam Regional Commissioner, Amos Makalla, says the government is determined to make the city safer and brighter. “We’re installing solar street lights and CCTV cameras from the airport to the city centre,” he says. “We’ve also built modern markets to support 24-hour trade.”
However, residents say many street lights remain broken or unrepaired for years, even in areas near government offices.
Policy analyst Anitha James warns that inconsistent laws are slowing progress. “One office says close at midnight, another says work 24 hours,” she explains. “The government needs one clear policy for nighttime trade.”
With over 5.4 million residents and a GDP of 25.3 trillion shillings, Dar es Salaam is already East Africa’s second-largest economy after Nairobi.
Experts say that by 2030, Dar could become a model for Africa’s nighttime economy — if it improves infrastructure, security, and legal support for small traders.
As Natenga flips his last batch of fried octopus and Asha serves her final plate of rice, one thing is clear:
Dar’s night belongs to the dreamers, the doers, and the survivors.
In every smoky corner, under flickering lights, Dar es Salaam’s resilience shines. The city’s night traders are not just earning a living — they are quietly building an economy after dark, one meal, one ride, and one light bulb at a time.
